Edmonton’s Local Gem

Cover image from Soma Mo

In honour of Asian Heritage Month, we’ve been highlighting Asian-owned brands and designers in and around our local cities, and today, we’re sharing a gem (pun intended) in the midst of Edmonton’s streets. Soma Mo by Soma Mo is a local jewelry brand, specializing in handmade necklaces, bracelets and earrings using real silver, and precious stones like pearls, amber, aquamarine and more. We sat down with the designer behind the operation, Soma Mo, to get to know the ins and outs of her story and design process. 

Originally born into a hill tribe in Himalaya of South West China, Soma has always had a sense of color and balance running in her blood. Surrounded by traditions of wearing colorful embroidery, it was Soma’s dream to become an artist, even as a child. Fifteen years ago, Soma finally began living her dream, starting with beading simple jewelry, adding new techniques and perspectives as she progressed.

Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something Silver

“I found a master in Tibet that did silversmithing - everything [we] made [was] by hand hammer and small tools. It’s a slow process, [and] I’m the only woman I know doing that these days.”

The style of silversmithing Soma practices is a delicately slow process which involves etching her designs into the silver, by freehand. Determined to preserve the tradition while acquiring new skills, Soma traveled to Vancouver to learn contemporary theories on color and balance, and further developed her own style, which blended the old and new techniques together.

Soma explains that older hand-techniques are dying, with machines and stencils taking over. By continuing to use this inimitable method on her modern designs, Soma hopes to master this style of artistry by making it her own, and fusing the application of traditional handcrafting on modern elements. As described by the Edmonton Journal (2011) in their 2011 Christmas Issue, Soma’s technique is a "new take on [an] old tradition." (Edmonton Journal, 2011)

*Images from Soma Mo

The Creative Process

 A unique designer of her time, Soma is among few artists who choose not to sketch her designs beforehand. Never facing artist’s block in the duration of her career, Soma admits that ideas and inspiration are never an issue for her. 

“I think of something and then do it - it’s an emotional process. I never have a problem thinking of new designs. I [make] new things every week, sometimes every day.” She explains that skipping the planning and design stage in her process not only saves her time, but keeps her original idea in it’s purest, unadulterated form. “I keep it fresh, organic - emotional. [My] thoughts work faster than [my] hands, but I can picture [everything] so clearly in [my] head.” 

On average, assembling a necklace for Soma will take anywhere from two hours to half a day, to one entire day. However, for her silver pieces, the process is much more tedious and complex. The silver needs to be melted and cooled, and undergo stamping and carving. While Soma explains that simple, silver bangles are the most common and traditional technique, she enjoys experimenting, which is why you’ll generally spot fewer silver pieces in her shop over the year. 

Regardless of the time input required, Soma’s favourite part of the day is her time spent in her studio listening to music and manifesting her creations. Soma shares that she still adores what she does and appreciated having the freedom to make whatever she’s inspired to, without the pressure of conforming to trends or the monotony of producing the same, exact design over again.

“I'm very lucky - I just create. I don't think about the marketing, I don't follow the trend. I don't read magazines - I like to keep [my] ideas refreshing, new, and exciting. Every piece has [it’s] own personality, [and] you can tell.” 

Another reason why Soma’s think-and-do approach suits her so perfectly, is because she seldom repeats designs, and in turn doesn’t need to reference her previous designs. With her vivid memory and emotional connection to each piece, Soma has no issues recognizing her own work.

“Every single piece I make is different. I only make similar items when a customer asks, and even then, it’s not [completely] identical.” 

*Images from Soma Mo

Jewelry, Inspired

Soma resonates with the feeling that she was born to build. Since growing up with so many ideas and inspirations, Soma knew that using her hands was something that she not only loved but came easily to her. Humbly taken with nature, Soma expresses that most of a big part of her inspiration is found in plants. You’ll find most of Soma’s silver pieces will sport intricately engraved flowers, all individual, and brought to life by hand.  

“I like plants and flowers a lot. My hometown was surrounded by plants and flowers [through] all seasons, so most of my inspiration comes from nature, and my traditional culture.”

Soma has discovered over the years that inspiration is built in your life experiences. She recalls her 27 years growing up in a Chinese hill tribe, and how she was constantly surrounded by nature, structure, and familiarity.

“There were lots of memories, lots of elements, and inspiration everywhere. Bridges, traditional architecture, and buildings are a big role - I really like buildings. [I’ve] found as an artist that inspiration always comes from your past. For me, it was gardens, memories, and [a mix] of my own tastes.” 

Lessons Learned

When she first started, Soma admits was confused. 

“At the time, most jewelry in the market was very uniform, [while] I like using chunky stones. I didn't [recognize] the quality, [and had] a hard time finding stones.”

She recounted her first experience with poor quality when she accidentally bought fake coral for a necklace and found the color bleeding into her clothes not long after. 

“I learned quickly not to buy fake. I looked down, and my shirt turned completely pink. Now I check to see if the stone is dyed before I buy them - you can tell if it's fake.”

After years of sourcing her own materials, Soma can easily discern between real gemstones and the replicas. Her secret for checking dyes on closer look-alikes includes gently rubbing the stones with a dry or damp cloth. With a mixture of learning and experience, Soma mentions that she has become increasingly attuned with recognizing authentic stones, and is more selective in choosing stones, colors and shapes.  

“I only use real stones now - I don't like dyed colors. I [look for] natural, matte finishes, and [nothing] too shiny. Lately I like freshwater pearls, and other high quality [gems] like aquamarine and amber.”

Soma hand picks all her own materials. As part of her inspiration processes, she’s found that in seeing the stones for the first time, she’s prompted with a suitable design for each material. Soma also notes that real gems have been hard to source around Edmonton except for a few true spots, she previously travelled to collect and restock materials. Often revisiting her initial inspiration and travelling to China once to twice a year, Soma finds most of her favourite materials in her hometown. Because she enjoys collecting stones even outside of her designs, Soma has had more than enough stock to carry her for the past two years. 

Navigating Her New Normal 

In a way, Soma acknowledges that she’s found light in the midst of the past two tumultuous years. Alongside opening an online shop and selling her pieces to outside cities like Vancouver and Toronto, she also mentions how much time and new appreciation she’s finding for her pieces. 

“Because I’m online, now I find I value my stuff more than before - I [have to] name them, and model them, and spend more time with them.”

With Soma cultivating a new concept for a design nearly everyday, she’s found that being at home during lockdown has given her time to make more and spend quality time in her studio. On top of that, opening her online shop has come with a few new skills of its own. 

“I’m learning how to take photos, I’m modeling, I’m photo editing - [lockdown] has been a good way [for me] to learn.”

The versatility of the remote realm and the launch of her online shop have opened up new potentials for Soma’s future. While she can’t wait to attend in-person fashion and trade shows once again, she also teases at the idea of eventually running her online shop from somewhere warm and remote.

You can find Soma Mo’s pieces at the Old Strathcona Market every Saturday, and more locations across Alberta, BC, and Ontario. Soma Mo makes new pieces everyday, and you can look for her newest designs up on her website weekly. Keep up with Soma Mo on Instagram and Facebook.